Nordeste is the remote north-eastern corner of São Miguel, so far from the rest of the island before modern roads that locals called it “the tenth island”. It is the island at its greenest and quietest: deep valleys, waterfalls, flower-filled viewpoints on the cliffs, the oldest lighthouse in the Azores and Pico da Vara, the island’s highest peak. This guide covers the viewpoints, waterfalls and walks of Nordeste and Povoação, and how to plan a day out east.
- Where
- North-east São Miguel, 1 hour 15 minutes from Ponta Delgada
- Known for
- Garden viewpoints, waterfalls, sunrise, wild coast
- Time needed
- A full day
- Best time
- Spring and summer, for the flowers
- Highest point
- Pico da Vara, 1,103 m
- Getting there
- Car is essential to explore
At a glance
Highlights of Nordeste
Tap any photo to see the place on the interactive map, with directions from where you are.
Miradouros
The garden viewpoints
Along the coast road, local gardeners have turned the clifftop viewpoints into small parks, with flowerbeds, hedges, picnic tables and barbecue areas, all looking out over the Atlantic.
- Ponta do Sossego Viewpoint: the most beautiful of them: terraced gardens on a headland over a deep green coast.
- Ponta da Madrugada Viewpoint: the island’s sunrise spot, as its name (“dawn point”) suggests. Worth the early start.
- Ponta do Arnel Viewpoint: above the lighthouse, with a view along the cliffs.
Water everywhere
Waterfalls of the east
- Ribeira dos Caldeirões Natural Park: a waterfall by the road, a garden along the stream and restored watermills you can look inside. The easiest waterfall stop on the island.
- Salto do Prego: a tall waterfall in the forest above the village of Faial da Terra, reached on one of the best short hikes on São Miguel (see below).
- Lombadas and the streams of Achada and Ribeira do Guilherme hide more falls in the valleys.
The village
Nordeste town
The small town of Nordeste is approached over the Ponte dos Sete Arcos, a stone bridge of seven arches across a deep gorge. The white church and the little main square make a pleasant coffee stop. Just outside town, the Viveiro do Nordeste Forest Park has shady paths and picnic areas.
The oldest in the Azores
Arnel Lighthouse
The Arnel Lighthouse, first lit in 1876, is the oldest lighthouse in the Azores. It stands on a ledge at the bottom of the cliffs, next to a tiny fishing harbour. The road down is extremely steep and narrow: most visitors leave the car at the top and walk (around 15 minutes down, longer back up).
On foot
Hiking in Nordeste
- Salto do Prego and Sanguinho (easy to moderate): from Faial da Terra, a loop of about 4–5 km climbs through the forest to the Salto do Prego waterfall and the restored hamlet of Sanguinho, with sea views on the way back. Allow 2–3 hours.
- Pico da Vara (hard): the island’s highest peak at 1,103 m, in a protected forest that is the only home of the priolo, the rare Azores bullfinch. Access rules apply to protect the bird; check before you go.
- Tronqueira Viewpoint: on the mountain road through the Serra da Tronqueira, the best place to look for the priolo, with a small visitor centre in the area.
South-east
Povoação and Faial da Terra
- Povoação: the place where the first settlers landed in the 15th century, in a valley surrounded by seven green ridges.
- Faial da Terra: a peaceful village at the bottom of a valley, the start of the Salto do Prego walk.
- Lombo Gordo Beach: a remote bay below high cliffs, reached by a steep road; no lifeguard.
From Povoação, Furnas and the warm-water beach of Ribeira Quente are 15–20 minutes away.
Access
How to get to Nordeste
- By car: about 1 hour 15 minutes from Ponta Delgada along the north-coast expressway, or about 1.5 hours via Furnas and Povoação on the south side. The best plan is a loop: out one way, back the other.
- By bus: a few buses a day reach Nordeste and Povoação, but not the viewpoints or waterfalls.
- Staying here: rural houses in Nordeste are perfect for silence and sunrise, but every other part of the island is a long drive away.
🚗 Car, tour or bus? See how to get around São Miguel: why a hire car or a guided tour is the way to reach places like the Sossego and Madrugada viewpoints.
Planning
A day in the wild east
- Morning: drive along the north coast to Ribeira dos Caldeirões and its waterfall.
- Late morning: Nordeste town and the bridge, then down to the Arnel Lighthouse.
- Lunch: a picnic at Ponta do Sossego.
- Afternoon: the Salto do Prego walk from Faial da Terra.
- Evening: back via Povoação and Furnas, with a hot-spring bath on the way.
Short on time? Combine the viewpoints and Ribeira dos Caldeirões with a day in Furnas. More in the full São Miguel guide and on the São Miguel map.
Questions
Nordeste FAQ
Is Nordeste worth visiting?
Yes, for the quietest and greenest side of São Miguel: garden viewpoints, waterfalls, the oldest lighthouse in the Azores and great walks, with very few crowds.
How long does it take to drive to Nordeste?
About 1 hour 15 minutes from Ponta Delgada by the north-coast expressway.
Where is the best sunrise on São Miguel?
At the Ponta da Madrugada Viewpoint in Nordeste, the easternmost viewpoint on the island.
How long is the Salto do Prego hike?
The loop from Faial da Terra via Sanguinho is about 4–5 km and takes 2–3 hours.
Why is Nordeste called “the tenth island”?
Before modern roads, it was so hard to reach from the rest of São Miguel that it felt like a separate island.